“If you have to ask what jazz is, you’ll never know.” – Louis Armstrong

To me, this means jazz must be experienced to understand. Talking about it won’t get you there. The whole point of this blog is to encourage readers to get out and experience history. This is especially so with jazz. Its historical significance on music is unquestioned and it all started in New Orleans.

In this post, we are going to discuss four jazz venues in New Orleans playing traditional jazz as well as their pros and cons. Of course, we’ll have some history in here too! I was determined to listen to jazz every night of the trip. Did I succeed?

Night 1: Fritzel’s European Jazz Club, 733 Bourbon St

Fritzel’s was the first stop on this jazz expedition since it is close to my hotel. You walk into a well-lit hall with picture-strewn brick walls. Fritzel’s brims with energy. The stage is at the far end of the hall, and I only had a partial view upon entering. By sheer coincidence, fate, or whatever you like to call it, I soon discovered the man helming the trumpet was Jamil Sharif. I first heard Jamil on my last trip to New Orleans 10 months before. It floored me then and it did again this time.

Fritzel’s has hosted traditional jazz since 1969. According to their website, that makes them the longest continuing jazz club in New Orleans today. The building itself dates back to 1831 and, though on Bourbon Street, is located nearer to the quieter Esplanade as opposed to the louder part of the street towards Canal. There is no cover change, but patrons must purchase one drink minimum per set. Although this is a 21+ club, the drink need not be alcoholic in nature.

Pros: location; no cover charge; energetic vibe; most seating has at least partial views of the stage.

Cons: limited close seating; witnessed more than one instance of staff being overzealous with the rules; 21+.

Night 2: preservation hall, 726 Saint peter st

In my blog, Jazz Up Your Trip to New Orleans, I referred to Preservation Jazz Hall as a second-choice venue. This was said tongue-in-cheek as Preservation is one of the more famous jazz clubs. In fact, it made MSN’s list of 20 Best Historic Jazz Clubs in the U.S. Preservation Hall performances require a reservation and ticket, something I learned the hard way. Tickets range from $25 to $50 with the cheaper option for standing only. Each set is 45 minutes.

The hall seeks to preserve the traditional roots of jazz (hence the name). It has seen limited renovation work since its opening in 1961*. That has both positives and negatives. Preserving history is important on one hand, but on the other the outside is a bit of an eyesore. We do have Preservation to thank for the revival of traditional jazz and bucking the status quo of segregation in the 1960s. For that, it is worth checking out.

*A call to Preservation Hall’s automated system stated “we are now back at our original location of 726 Saint Peter St.” That is likely why Fritzel’s can claim to be the longest continuously operating jazz club. A call to Fritzel’s went unanswered.

Pros: historical value; intimate setting; reserved spots; for all ages.

Cons: relatively high charge for length of set; reservations required; wood bench seating is a bit uncomfortable.

Night 3: Mahogany Jazz Hall, 125 Chartres st

Mahogany is the only jazz hall I visited last trip. This time, I made the trip across the French Quarter on my third night to hear Jamil Sharif again (as you might have guessed). Unlike Fritzel’s, you jump right into the music upon entering here as the stage is just left of the entrance. It makes for good street music, but it also means patrons have to cross right in between the stage and guests already seated. Mahogany has a different vibe too. With dim lighting and most of the seating not in view of the stage, the music serves more as background sound for socializing than the focal point.

It seems Mahogany may be going through somewhat of a rebranding as well. On my visit just ten months before, their official website name was Mahogany Jazz Hall and Burlesque. Though they have dropped Burlesque from their name, the logo still pays homage to that history. I called Mahogany and found out they still host pop-up burlesque shows on some nights. I’ll stick to the jazz. Similar to Fritzel’s, Mahogany has no coverage but carries a one drink minimum per set. It is also 21+.

Pros: more seating right in front of the stage; good for groups; no cover charge.

Cons: awkward overall seating; dim lighting; 21+.

Night 4: Snug Jazz Hall, 626 Frenchmen st

Night 4 saw my introduction to Frenchmen Street. I chanced upon a conversation with Jamil Sharif on my first night at the hotel. He told me about a set he was playing with Dr. Michael White of Tulane University at Snug Harbor later in the week. I jumped on the chance. The crowd not only were blessed with 90 minutes of great jazz; we also got a history lesson on the songs. It is clear Dr. White is a guy that, though extremely humble, knows how to command a room.

Snug Harbor is a relatively newer addition to the jazz scene as it has been operating for 30 years. Though it hosts traditional jazz on occasion like Dr. White, it is known for attracting the best modern jazz musicians the city has to offer. It has an upscale feel compared to the other joints in this post. It is also the only spot not located in the French Quarter. That should not be a reason to skip it though. Frenchmen Street is a place you need to visit anyway. The three blocks are full of music and dance clubs. The area pulsates energy. In other words, it’s a blast.

Tickets cost $25 to $40 depending on the night and who’s playing and must be purchased in advance. I walked from my hotel to Snug and back, which was about 15 minutes. However, Snug’s website indicates to use caution if coming from the French Quarter and recommends getting a ride for safety. If my wife is reading this, sorry!

Pros: reasonable price; upscale feel; top music; located on energetic Frenchmen Street; for all ages.

Cons: ride is recommended; most shows aren’t traditional jazz if that’s your jam.

night 5: bonus night at fritzel’s

Winter weather hit the south, which meant a bonus day in New Orleans for me! I knew Jamil was playing Fritzel’s again that night. Not looking to venture too far, taking one more chance to hear Jamil’s rendition of Louis Armstrong’s Sunny Side of the Street sounded more than okay.

You just have to experience it

Jazz’s creation is owed to New Orleans. Jazz in turn runs through the streets of New Orleans like blood through veins. The two are forever interconnected. It simply must be experienced to understand. I encourage you to do just that…as often as you can.

We’ve discussed four different venues where you can experience traditional jazz in this post. However, these are far from all. Let me know if you’ve been to spots in New Orleans or other cities. I’d love to hear about your experience.

Please remember to check out all of History with Legs’ other posts on New Orleans as well. There is so much for you to experience there!